Helmut Lang Spring-Summer 2013 RTW

 When Nicole and Michael Colovos venture under the sea, they are not diving into a foamy, whimsical waterworld of giant clamshells or warbling crustaceans. Their aquatic vision—at least as it played out in their spring collection for Helmut Lang—is a little more scientific.

The medallions and florals splashed across boxy jackets and short suits were inspired by the illustrations of nineteenth-century German biologist Ernst Haeckel (tattoo artist Thomas Hooper was the one who actually re-created the drawings for the designers).

The silhouettes—straight shift dresses and sharp blazers—had the precision of nautical instruments. Together, the result was urban clothes that simply referenced the ocean. Call it the fashion equivalent of fashionable surf and turf.

For example, a shiny, two-toned aquamarine skirt glistened like the sun off the waves, and sheer panels on sporty tops or laid over a dress the shade of a king crab claw acted like a thin aquatic film. And while it wasn’t scuba, there was a definite athleticism here too with long-sleeved shirts in graphic racing stripes and contrast piping rushing along the edges of stiff dresses.

What one came away with most though—to drift from this sea metaphor for a minute—was a new silhouette for the street: slouchy, tapered pants worn with a drapey, thin tank and boxy, blouse-y jacket. It’s a soft interpretation of strength that started coming to the surface with fall’s oversize trend. Now it’s just scaled down for everyday life.

via: vogue
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