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For a designer like Marios Schwab, who immerses himself in his theoretical research and obsessing over the minutiae of sewing and embroidery technique in his studio in the East End of London, it’s a huge epiphany to see his clothes being snapped up and paraded by young VIPs in Hollywood.
But since the British Fashion Council took Schwab to Los Angeles last year to meet stylists with a group of fellow London designers, that’s just what happened—an instant reaction from the likes of Kristen Stewart (who has worn his dresses multiple times), Jessica Chastain, Felicity Jones, Zoë Saldana, and others.
What is it about Schwab’s work that allows it to get through a chink in the notorious wall of the giant brands that offer arrangements for celebrity endorsements? At a guess, because it’s young, classy, and fits a body without being too obvious or identifiable. There’s something in the way he structures a bodice—hinting at corsetry or harnesses and the illusion of showing skin while remaining decent—that makes his work subtly sexy.
So perhaps the way to critique his spring collection is not to go too deeply into his inspiration—honeycombs, Amazonian tribes, and photographs of Native Americans—but to ask whether there’s enough there to satisfy those girls? The answer: Probably, yes. Although the term “tribal” can play as a too-well-worn fashion cliché, most of his pieces, save for the ones with raffia trim, didn’t lay on the references too overtly. Taken off the runway and put in the midst of a party, a dress like the raspberry pleated leather sheath with a side-slit skirt or the nude-pink chiffon fit-and-flare dance dress with an external leather cutaway corset will have the power to turn heads and look great in the flash of a camera. And for Schwab, that’s the accolade that will win him more business.
But since the British Fashion Council took Schwab to Los Angeles last year to meet stylists with a group of fellow London designers, that’s just what happened—an instant reaction from the likes of Kristen Stewart (who has worn his dresses multiple times), Jessica Chastain, Felicity Jones, Zoë Saldana, and others.
What is it about Schwab’s work that allows it to get through a chink in the notorious wall of the giant brands that offer arrangements for celebrity endorsements? At a guess, because it’s young, classy, and fits a body without being too obvious or identifiable. There’s something in the way he structures a bodice—hinting at corsetry or harnesses and the illusion of showing skin while remaining decent—that makes his work subtly sexy.
So perhaps the way to critique his spring collection is not to go too deeply into his inspiration—honeycombs, Amazonian tribes, and photographs of Native Americans—but to ask whether there’s enough there to satisfy those girls? The answer: Probably, yes. Although the term “tribal” can play as a too-well-worn fashion cliché, most of his pieces, save for the ones with raffia trim, didn’t lay on the references too overtly. Taken off the runway and put in the midst of a party, a dress like the raspberry pleated leather sheath with a side-slit skirt or the nude-pink chiffon fit-and-flare dance dress with an external leather cutaway corset will have the power to turn heads and look great in the flash of a camera. And for Schwab, that’s the accolade that will win him more business.
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